Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Life in the Slow Lane

"Life in the Slow Lane"

I recently saw a t-shirt with a quote from famed race car driver Michael Andretti that said, "If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." I chuckled at the notion and then began reflecting on the last 15 months that we have spent sailing along at a blistering 7 knots. At times even that snail's pace seemed too fast and I wished I could slow down.

I coincidently received an e-mail around the same time from a friend back home inquiring about a few things related to our time at sea that I have not written about. The reality is that cruising, in many ways is not much different than life on land. The everyday tasks of living and life must continue. Sure there are additional challenges at times based on our limited space and often exotic surroundings that are new and unusual, but for the most part they are much like life at home. The personal and interpersonal challenges you face on land still exist at sea. The issues that are a challenge in Idaho are still a challenge in Panama, Guatemala, Belize, or wherever life takes you.

The more challenging questions asked by my friend revolved around lessons learned and how one integrates back into life once we return home. I was particularly challenged by a question asking how we would find fulfillment in Nampa Idaho after such an exciting and life changing experience. Everyone who chooses to live out a life dream understands somewhere deep in their heart before they attempt it that the experience will change them. The scary part is wondering if I will like the change and the challenge really becomes how to take the adversity and triumph experienced while attempting the dream and mold them both into character building events.

How a particular individual or family, in this case the Wheelers, achieve a positive end-result is as varied as the individuals who choose to live out a lifelong dream. The real key, it seems, is learning to take adversity and triumph and use them BOTH as building blocks. Not steps upon which one props themselves up but foundational building blocks that become the core of who an individual is.

Amy and Marshall have seen more and experienced more in the last 15 months than they or we could have ever imagined. Susan and I have experienced highs and lows entirely new to us even after 22 years of marriage. We are learning that finding fulfillment is not about arriving at a place but about the process. For me life provided great fulfillment at 7 knots learning and becoming proficient at the process of sailing and living in harmony with the sea. Others like Michael Andretti find fulfillment in the process of driving a race car at 180 miles an hour. One does not take the place of the other and they are simply different avenues for different people to live out a dream.

We decided to take a chance and go for a dream that had been incubating within us for over 10 years. Deciding to go was the hardest part. Once we had decided to go we committed ourselves to making it happen and then the journey of discovery we found ourselves on provided daily opportunities for us to expand ourselves.

The key for me was slowing down enough that I could get the target in focus. I had spent 20 years in the fast lane and the result was a blurry image of life. Many who knew me questioned whether I could stand moving at a sailor's pace for any extended period of time. Not only did we tolerate it but we got to liking moving along at a slower pace. Still, I would presume that some might need to find a way to add some speed to their journey to bump them out of a rut and onto new and fertile soil. Whichever tack you choose (sailing pun intended) the message is clear to this sailor, dreams are worth attempting and fulfillment comes not from arriving at a destination but learning from and enjoying the moments of the journey.

The 4Wheelers

4 Wheeler Sailing Update

Attached is my most recent article that appeared last week.
 
Enjoy and Blessings,  Mark

Monday, March 23, 2009

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Losing Little Red

Losing Little Red

The passing of a dear friend or the closing of a chapter in life is tough on the best of days and yet we sadly said goodbye today to a steady companion who has traveled with us daily over the last 10 months. I am getting a little ahead of myself, so first a little background.

One of the things that especially Marshall and I looked forward to prior to going sailing was the chance to do a little fishing. We have always enjoyed fishing together and the notion of catching something big in the ocean really intrigued us. Having said that, Idaho is not the best place to outfit a boat for deep sea fishing and I was pretty sure my trout rod would not hold up to the rigors of ocean fishing. With the generous help of Susan's dad (an accomplished fisherman in his own right) we left equipped fairly well but sorely lacking in knowledge about how to ply the depths for food, not to mention how to catch "the big one".

Shortly after arriving in the San Blas Islands of Panama 13 months ago Marshall and I took it upon ourselves to reach out to another cruiser and ask for help. We were exploring in our dinghy at our first anchorage in the San Blas and noticed another boat that appeared well equipped on the fishing side of the equation. After introducing ourselves we asked for suggestions and help getting rigged and preparing to do deep sea battle. It turns out we were talking with a retired commercial fisherman from New Zealand and his advice has served us well over the months that have followed.

It was in fact our very next passage that we caught our first fish. We had left a group of islands called the "Lemons" headed for the "Eastern Hollandes" and everyone encouraged us to fish. So we got serious about getting rigged and off we went. It was one of those perfect San Blas sailing days. We had 15 knots of wind on the beam with flat seas behind the barrier reef. We were all listening to music and enjoying the sun and tranquility of the day and then it happened. Without warning, out of nowhere, line began screaming off the reel. Now what do we do? We have the sails up and need to slow down while keeping a close eye on navigational hazards and not wanting to lose our first fish.

The Chinese fire drill that followed would easily have made fodder for late night television comedians. Susan took the helm, Amy cleared the deck and helped with sails, Marshall readied the gaff and I grabbed the rod not knowing whether we had a minnow or a mammoth. After a few exciting minutes we were able to avoid going aground on the reef and got a 45' King Mackerel on board. It was great fun, not to mention wonderful eating, and we were hooked (pun intended).

The months that followed saw us fishing anytime we could, and yet it seemed we just were not catching many fish. A few mackerel but nothing of real significance. Not until we ran into a boat in Bocas del Toro, Panama did we get our lucky break. The husband and wife aboard s/v Lone Star Love were not only avid fisherpersons but actually sold a line of fishing lures. We skeptically acquired a few of their lures with strong guarantees that these would catch fish. Sounded like a fish story to me but I was willing to try anything.

The very first time we used them we caught fish. A small shiny red, silver and black skirted lure hooked up first and then again, not once but 4 more times during our 3 hour trip. The best part was that we finally caught a Tuna, the fish we had been hoping for and our favorite fish to eat by far. Over the next few weeks we tried all the different colors but it seemed that without fail it was the little red lure that scored 90% of the time. The fish log that Marshall had started early in our voyage was finally being updated on a regular basis.

Whenever we sailed "little red" was always in the water. On our sail from Isla Mujeres, Mexico to the Dry Tortugas of Florida alone we caught 11 fish, and 10 of the 11 were on Little Red including our largest fish to date a 47 inch King Mackerel. Little Red provided an abundance of fresh fish not to mention hours of fun and numerous wonderful memories. Upon reaching the Bahamas in January we decided to retire Little Red after successfully bringing to the boat Mackerel, Barracuda, Bonita Tuna, Blackfin Tuna, Dorado (Mahi Mahi) and Jack Crevalle. In total, over 30 fish with this one little lure. Not bad for a $7 investment. We thought we might have a plaque made with the lure mounted on it and a list of the fish caught for the trophy room back home in Idaho.

Our sail to and from the Bahamas and our fishing while there saw us hook up 5 Dorado (Mahi Mahi) but no tuna and by the time we started to head back to Florida Susan asked if we could bring "Little Red" out of retirement for one last shot at a Tuna. Ironically I had just met and got acquainted with the crew from one of the most famous professional fishing boats in the world. When I told them about "Little Red" they emphatically said, "If a lure is hot fish it and never retire a good lure."

I reluctantly agreed and am now learning it is almost always risky to make decisions with your stomach. Arriving back in Idaho with Little Red and one last meal of seared Blackfin Tuna was not to be. Somewhere over the Florida banks he disappeared. We do not know whether Little Red snagged on flotsam, a wayward crab pot or a giant fish. All that remains now are the memories and a lot of left over sushi supplies.

For 10 months "Little Red" faithfully followed behind Mima never complaining and never letting us down. From Panama to the Bahamas this little lure logged over 1500 nautical miles. I am not one to anthropomorphize animals or to give to inanimate objects more than their due, but suffice it to say our journey would not have been nearly as memorable if "Little Red" had not come our way. Good bye old friend and thanks for the memories and the sushi.

The 4Wheelers

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Saturday, February 21, 2009

Atlantis Found and Bahama Mamma

Saturday February 21, 2009

Location: Warderick Wells Cay, Bahamas

N 25 22'55

W 076 37'25

Sail Log: Atlantis Found and Bahama Mamma

Atlantis has intrigued philosophers since Plato's day and continues to fascinate dreamers and scientist alike. Did an entire civilization once flourish on a mythical or now extinct continent? It is said that on Atlantis the arts reached heights of expression never before seen and that scientists and scholars of the island made great discoveries and built wondrous machines. Its' people traveled far and wide in sleek, fast ships, trading with distant lands and countries. This evolved civilization thrived for years, until one day it was submerged by an unforeseen volcanic eruption. The entire island and all its' treasures were drawn into the depths of the ocean. In a single day the ocean swallowed Atlantis.

I have always liked the idea that somewhere waiting for the right adventurer Atlantis will be discovered and its' riches revealed to the world. But then again I always liked Indiana Jones movies as well. The truth is, we are learning, Atlantis can be found and it may be in the Bahamas or wherever you are.

Having spent all of January in Florida during a particularly cold spell we were eager to get back to the islands and to be at anchor. Our marina experience in St. Petersburg could not have been any nicer but we are wanderers at heart and a month at a marina when there are islands/Atlantis close by and the chance to meet Bahama Mamma is more than this mariner could stand.

We had been in the Bahamas for just a couple of days when Susan's Mom, Step Father and Aunt arrived and met us on Mima in the Atlantis marina. That's right; Atlantis does exist in the form of a super-resort on Paradise Island. Las Vegas has nothing on this place, add to that the largest man-made marine habitat in the world along with literally miles of water park activities and you begin to understand what this Atlantis is like. We were treated like royalty and learned a great deal at the same time. The Manta Ray feedings and predator lagoon presentations allow you to view up close some of the oceans' most intriguing marine inhabitants and learn more about them. Did you know that after feeding Manta Rays do back flips to aid in digestion? What a thrill it was to see it firsthand. Our three days playing and experiencing this Atlantis is an experience we will not soon forget, but I was still longing for a different Atlantis, and when do I get to meet the famed Bahama Mamma?

We said goodbye to Susan's Aunt and with Grandma and Grandpa still on board headed out to a chain of islands called the Exumas. A short 30 nautical miles from Nassau this chain of islands has much to offer sailors and island lovers alike. We are still getting used to sailing along with only 6-10 feet of water under the keel when we are in "deep" water, but so far only water and the occasional wayward jellyfish has touched Mima's underside.

Anchored a few days ago on the south side of Norman's Cay, within view of the old hangout of drug lord Carlos Lehder and a downed airplane in 5 feet of water, we began reconsidering what defines Atlantis and who Bahama Mamma is. A no expense spared man-made Atlantis is one thing but the dozen or so small islets along with good protection from Norman's Cay made for an idyllic anchorage. Is this Atlantis? While enjoying snorkeling around the airplane wreck Susan (aka Little Fish) began looking for conch.

I must tell you that in the last 14 months I have yet to meet anyone who enjoys snorkeling or that is more comfortable in the water than Susan. She is routinely the first one in the water and the last one out, hence her new nickname. Combine all of that with her uncanny ability to spot delectable items from the ocean buffet and then prepare them to perfection and she is perhaps the real Bahama Mamma, and so cute besides. Today she discovered the conch "mother lode".

We are very careful to not harvest any juvenile conch and adhere to all local fishing laws. But with six people onboard our limit was quite high and after "Little Fish" had 31 in the dinghy we called it quits. Two hours later all the conch was cleaned with help from Grandpa Rob and we enjoyed a lazy afternoon onboard. If you ever get a chance to try Conch Fritters, Cracked Conch, Conch Ceviche or my favorite, Thai Coconut Curry Conch you are in for a treat. To this mariner this is my idea of Atlantis and add to it a real Bahama Mamma on board and what more could you ask for?

The following day we made our way to Hawksbill Cay. This uninhabited island played host to Mima and a single mega yacht. We never saw the mega yacht's inhabitants on or off the boat so we had miles of white sandy beach all to ourselves. Amy and Marshall (our children) swam with Grandma and Grandpa and made sandcastles while we walked the beach hand in hand looking for the next seashell for our ever growing collection. As we turned to walk back down the beach we were joined by a sea turtle that swam just 15 feet off the beach all the way back with us. He occasionally raised his head for a breath of air, looked at us and then continued on down the beach with us following close behind.

I was reminded once again that Atlantis is not a "place" in the minds of dreamers and adventurers nor is it the man made result of fabulous imaginations and untold millions of dollars. Atlantis is a state of heart and mind not a place. More and more we are learning that each day is defined by what or whom we put our faith in and the relationships we invest ourselves in. I am convinced that Atlantis can be found, but we must stop looking for the place called Atlantis.

What are we to make of the famed island beauty and legendary Bahama Mamma you ask? Well, what can I say, if you want to meet her come visit, I am sailing with her.

Live Slow, Sail Fast, Love Well

The 4Wheelers