Mima Goes Mayan and Ponders Greed

Technically only the crew of s/v Mima went Mayan. We returned to Honduras to visit Mayan ruins while Mima sat safely at our marina on the Rio Dulce. One of the things we had looked forward to most in the days leading up to our hurricane season forced sabbatical in Guatemala was learning more about Mayan history and culture. We had purchased Mayan history books prior to leaving Idaho in expectation of our time in Central America and we have used our geographic location as a spring-board to learn about this intriguing piece of world history. We were also pleasantly surprised when both Amy and Marshall really seemed to get into reading about this fascinating culture.

Tikal in Guatemala is generally considered to be the New York City of ancient Mayan culture and we will make a trip there in 3 weeks. Copan in Honduras is often referred to as the Paris of Mayan culture. Once we heard that and spoke with other travelers who had visited Copan we realized we wanted to go. We loaded up and after an “easy” 6 hour bus ride we arrived at the border. Perhaps I should explain what an “easy” 6 hour bus ride in Guatemala is. The bus, thankfully was not the famed “chicken buses” of Guatemala but an older Mercedes Benz bus that I am sure started its’ life shuttling camera toting tourists around to sites of interest in comfort and class. When they have outlived their lives in more developed countries they seem to get sent here and are referred to as express buses.

The airline style reading lights and air conditioning vents are all still in place, although not operational, as are the curtains. The seats still maintain most of their padding and at least they only allow one person per seat. A big difference between this bus and buses in the U.S. is you stop a lot. I mean A LOT. We stopped for the driver to hand a car radio off to a friend, for him to say hello to a passing bus driver and about a hundred other times, some of which made sense some of which left us scratching our heads. Our driver was very nice and quite interested in the gringos on his bus and loved talking with us, most of the time while driving and text messaging simultaneously. Did I mention that he was really cool? He had the look of a guy ready for anything. Big oversized sunglasses and rings on every finger and that stylish ultra-short beard that made me wonder if he just forgot to shave. None the less, it all worked for him and he pulled it off well.

I do not know much else about our driver except to say that I think he hopes to be a NASCAR driver in his next life and takes practicing with his bus very seriously. This guy moved through the gears like he was driving a dragster, and attempted and succeeded in passing cars and trucks in situations I would not attempt in a Ferrari, but he got us there safely and on time. Once at the border between Guatemala and Honduras it was an easy 15 minute taxi ride to the charming city of Copan Ruinas.

Copan Ruinas has flourished as a town because of the ruins located just one mile from town. The city retains its small town charm and friendliness, yet the constant flow of tourists has attracted many entrepreneurs catering to the broad international base of tourists. The coffee shops, quaint hotels and shops, and beautiful town square invite one to come and stay for a while. But we were here to see the ruins, so the following morning after hooking up with our guide Mike; we headed off to explore our first Mayan ruins.

The Copan ruins are the most researched and excavated of all the ancient Mayan sites. Since the turn of the 19^th century archaeologists from around the world have been carefully studying and reconstructing this once vibrant city. Entire temples have been found intact contained within the ruins of later structures. The most ornate and complicated of stone carvings that exist today from Mayan culture were all found here, giving rise to the title, “The Paris of Mayan Society”. Much of the old city now looks like it did 1500 years ago minus the colorful paint, and visitors need not imagine much to visualize a vibrant city of over 30,000 people living and working in this valley.

As we walked through the ancient city looking at massive stone carvings called Stellas, and giant architectural structures, we kept saying to ourselves, “wow, could you imagine walking through the jungle and discovering that?” Who knows, maybe one of the 4Wheelers will be an archaeologist someday.

I also found myself thinking about the many similarities between this ancient civilization and ours. I do not pretend to be an expert on Mayan culture nor would I suggest that the practice of animal sacrifice resembles modern society. I am, however, struck by the similarities between the fall of Mayan culture and the current economic challenges facing the United States. Experts suggest that one of the prime reasons for the decline of Mayan culture was that they grew to a state of such excess that the environment around them was unable to support them.

This seems not unlike the excess we have seen exhibited lately by a few that has created such an economic hardship for so many innocent hard-working families. As Augustine noted, we are afflicted with restless hearts. We want more. Yet our wants are often unschooled, wide ranging, without limit, ready to alight on the first sweet-smelling tropical blossom that comes our way. The problem it seems in the matter of desire is not that we desire deeply but that we often desire deeply the wrong things. Not unlike the Mayans of old and the greed driven, “Wall Street” individuals of today.

The line is often very thin between need and want, and we are trying to learning how to live lives that embrace who we are as individuals married to a broader commitment to the natural environment around us and the most treasured of all entities, our fellow human beings. I continue to ask myself if I am balancing the realization of our many blessings with a generous and giving spirit. As we all struggle to make our way in this ever changing world we are hoping we can do so in such a way that addresses not only our needs but the needs of others. From the jungles of Honduras to your home our prayer is that we all are learning to live, love and share well.

Verbos Y Volcano (Verbs and Volcanos)

Guatemala Highlands

Mark & my Spanish Teacher

La semana pasada la familia Wheeler estuvo estudiando Espanol en Quetzeltanango. The translation for those of us not yet fluent in Spanish is that for the last week the Wheeler family has been studying Spanish in Quetzeltanango, Guatemala.

Since arriving to the Rio Dulce on August 11th we have been going non-stop. Five days after arriving we hauled out to give Mima a new coat of bottom paint. With the help of three local men we had the job done in a week and we were back in the water. It was our first time out of the water and it was quite a sight for us to see 50,000 pounds of sailboat sitting on land.

Once back in the water we got settled at Mario’s Marina and three days later we were on a bus to Guatemala City. Our good friends and cruising buddies, the Johnson’s (s/v Side by Side), were flying back to Guatemala City after 8 weeks back in the U.S. Our plan is to travel inland together for a few weeks and also to attend language school together. After a day in Guatemala City we loaded into a van together and after 6 hours arrived in the mountain town of Quetzeltanango, 182 Km from the capitol city. If you are doing the math that is roughly 113 miles in 6 hours.

Although we were in a private chartered van the sheer ruggedness of the terrain made for a very slow ride. The minutes melted away however as every turn in the road revealed another breathtaking vista. The sheer beauty of Guatemala escapes this author’s descriptive ability. In 6 hours we had gone from the metropolis of Guatemala City through beautifully cultivated fields into highland jungles and finally into pine forests always surrounded by volcanoes. As I write this I am looking out over 7 volcanoes three of which are active. The people and landscape of Guatemala are candy for the eyes, bring a smile to your face and place a joy in your heart. This is a truly spectacular country.


Upon arriving in Quetzeltanango (Xela to the Mayan) we settled in with our host family and began our week of Spanish emersion. Our Spanish program involved 5 hours daily of individual tutoring and as much Spanish afterhours as possible. We spent all our mornings in class studying Spanish and even had homework to do in the evenings. The rest of the day we spent exploring the city and its’ many attractions. Xela is the second most important economic center in Guatemala. The city is also in the center of an area populated largely by indigenous Mayans. The dress, culture and pride of the Mayan provided a fitting complement to the natural beauty of the area.

We have now moved onto a coffee finca (farm) that is cooperatively owned by the 40 families that reside here. This all organic fair trade coffee and macadamia nut plantation is a fully sustainable farm that generates its own biodiesel and has its own water purification system and hydroelectric power source. It has been a wonderful learning experience as we gain more knowledge about the history of Guatemala and the struggle of its’ rural inhabitants to carve out a place in this new democracy. Where the road leads from here we are not sure but where ever it leads we are assured of beautiful vista and charming people.

Until next time we trust your coffee is warm and your macadamia nuts sweet.
The 4Wheelers

3 Countries In 7 Days - Part 2

Mima Has Landed-Three Countries In Seven Days

Part 2.

We were enjoying ourselves so much we decided to stay another day and do some more fishing and snorkeling. Little did we know that tomorrow Marshall would be robbed of one of his dearest possessions? To be continued……

The following day started like any other I guess. That is if you are fortunate enough to find yourself sitting on a sailboat in the middle of paradise. The sunrise brushed the sky with a plethora of oranges and reds beyond description, and as the sun made its daily journey into the sky the water turned from black to blue and then settled on a shade of turquoise only the sun and sea seem capable of creating.

Marshall awoke and his feet had barely touched the floor when he began pleading to call Greg and go fishing again. I informed Marshall that Greg watches more sunsets than sunrises, so after a quick breakfast we headed out for a little fishing on our own. We had experienced good fortune yesterday trolling a couple of lures around the cuts between the reefs and so we rigged up and began to wind our way in and out of the reef. If you have ever taken kids fishing in the ocean you know what the conversation consisted of. "Dad what if we catch a Marlin that weighs 200 pounds or one of those giant Tarpon we swam with yesterday?" "That would be awesome!" I said. Secretly hoping for maybe a 10 pound snapper or grouper but not wanting to dampen Marshall's enthusiasm.

After trolling for an hour and a half a squall blew in with quite a bit of rain and we decided to head back to Mima to wait out the rain and maybe get Greg to join us for round number two. As we began to head back I asked Marshall, "Do you want to troll back or bring in the lines and go fast?" "Let's troll back," he said. "Good choice" I commented "you never know when you are going to catch a fish." We were making our way slowly back to the boat when Marshall's line was slammed. "Dad I got one!" hollered Marshall as he began to play the fish. After a few violent runs the fish tired and Marshall landed a nice little two foot long Barracuda. "Can we show Greg?" Marshall asked as we slowly towed the barracuda behind the dinghy.

Once alongside S/V CToy, Greg rewarded Marshall with a healthy dose of enthusiasm and encouragement. We were chatting and telling fish stories with Greg and Barbara when Marshall suddenly let out a blood-curdling scream heard by all three boats in the anchorage. In my peripheral vision what I thought had been a chunk of coral under the boat began to move and was heading directly for us. I was so alarmed that I literally stepped back, which is hard to do in a dinghy, trying to avoid the vague leviathan approaching. A moment later a mouth appeared out of the water and swallowed the barracuda whole.

Now this created a problem. The barracuda was still attached to Marshall's line and we now had a Goliath Grouper hooked on very light tackle. If we landed this fish it will be a world record. Marshall was fishing with the equivalent of a medium weight trout rod. Perfect for small reef fish but way under powered to land a giant grouper.

Marshall handed the rod to me and as line screamed off the reel we both stood in shock at what we had just observed and Marshall realized he had been robbed of his fish by none other than a fish larger than himself. His earlier "what if" questions seemed to be coming true and for a few brief moments I just held onto the rod and Greg kept saying "Whoa! Did you see that?" As the grouper headed back to where he had come from I tried to set the hook but eventually the grouper decided this little barracuda was not worth the trouble and spit the fish out whole. Marshall landed the barracuda for a second time and he was much the worse for wear. Scarred and cut up by the grouper's teeth we got the barracuda on board and sat in awe of what had just happened. Like true fishermen everywhere we spent the rest of the day trying to catch that grouper again on stronger tackle, but in the end I guess that grouper did not get that big by falling for the same trick twice.

The following day found us sailing for Guatemala. Another 8 hours of motor sailing into the wind and we arrived in Puerto Barrios, Guatemala (country number three) greeted by a pod of Bottlenose Dolphins. We spent a day looking around the town and visiting a mall where the kids eagerly hit McDonalds for lunch while we opted for tacos.

We were up and weighing anchor the following morning at 2:30 a.m. to take advantage of a high tide crossing over the bar at the mouth of the Rio Dulce River at sunrise. Mima draws a little over 6 feet and the mean low water level at the bar is 5 feet 6 inches. If you do the math that means we need extra water to make it over safely without hitting bottom or going aground. Add to that equation a rather narrow "sweet spot" in the channel and you have an exciting bit of navigation before you.

We were at the set up buoy at 6:00 a.m. and with S/V Dream Odyssey and S/V CToy in the lead, both of which draw less than Mima, we began our slow and well planned crossing. For the next 15 minutes we carefully followed GPS waypoints with Greg calling out depths to warn me of any potential shallow spots. I was a nervous wreck, Susan faired pretty well, and Amy and Marshall were still in bed asleep. Sometimes it is good to be the crew and not the captain. Our crossing was accompanied by the shrimp fleet returning and once we had cleared the shallowest part of the bar Susan quickly got in the dinghy and was negotiating for shrimp before we were ever anchored. Marshall woke up and helped me set the anchor and by 6:30 we had crossed the bar and Susan was now the proud owner of 10 pounds of fresh shrimp.

We checked in with the local authorities and spent a few hours in Livingston, Guatemala before beginning up the Rio Dulce to our new home for the next 3 months. What a week it had been. Three countries in seven days highlighted by a pristine jungle experience, snorkeling and fishing in a paradise-like setting, Marshall being robbed by a giant grouper, and finally, safely crossing the bar into the famed Rio Dulce.

Fair Winds and Following Seas, the 4Wheelers

3 Countries In 7 Days

Mima Has Landed

Three countries in seven days; hiking 2000 stairs, snorkeling with giant tarpon, Marshall being robbed, what a ride but we have finally arrived in Guatemala, our new home for the next three months. Before I get ahead of myself let me tell you about the past week and our continuing adventures.

If you recall my last article the kids had just finished their Scuba certification in Roatan, Honduras. After going on a couple dives together we left the Island of Roatan for Utila, the last of the Bay Islands. We spent 4 lazy days on Utila and enjoyed our time their very much before heading to the mainland of Honduras on our way to Guatemala and the Rio Dulce. Our sail to the mainland was not one. What I mean is that for the first time we experienced a west wind. What direction are we heading? You guessed it, west. Now in fairness to all the true sailors out there we could have tacked all over the place and sailed all the way to our destination but I have never claimed to be a true sailor. So we motor sailed and after 8 hours arrived at Puerto Escondido, Honduras.

The anchorage is part of a Honduran national park and we were greeted upon entering the anchorage with the fragrant bouquet of jungle flowers and the roar of Howler Monkeys. It was good to be back in the jungle again. The following day all three boats in our little flotilla (S/V Dream Odyssey, S/V CToy and S/V Mima) headed to shore to hike in the forest. I had not been on shore more than a couple of minutes and a pair of Plain Chachalaca (Google this one) came to check us out, very cool. Our real objective however, was a hike up 1000 stairs to an overlook we had heard about. We found the trail and were off. This is a rugged coast line and the stairs were necessary as it seemed that we were going straight up.

After 653 stairs, yes we counted as it kept our minds off our burning legs, we reached the top. It turns out that the remainder of the 1000 steps is on the way down the other side so down we went. After a quick rest stop we were back off up and over the ridge as we were only an hour away from sunset. After a total of 2000 stairs and a couple miles of trail we were back on board the boat. The jungle was beautiful here and perhaps the most pristine we have yet visited. Amy commented later after seeing plastic debris along a lonely stretch of beach and in the water, "I can see why it is so important not to litter." That lesson alone is worth the trip and we certainly hope we can play an active role in preserving what is left of our pristine jungles and forests.

The next morning we left for the Sapodilla Cays in Belize, country number two, after spending two months in Honduran waters. We eventually want to visit Honduras again and explore inland. The eight hour trip to the Sapodillas was uneventful with the exception of Marshall landing a nice King Mackerel. The Sapodilla Cays are the southernmost group of islands in the barrier reef of Belize. The primary reason we came here was to get a better point of sail for our trip to Guatemala and to break up the sailing legs so as not to require any overnight passages. After searching around for a while for a good anchorage big enough to hold all three boats we settled in close to Hunting Cay and realized we were sitting in a truly wonderful spot.

We quickly launched the dinghy and our time snorkeling revealed that we were in the middle of an aquarium. Abundant fish, crabs of all sorts, lobsters, conch the list goes on and on and all were here to greet us. Dinner was sushi from the Mackerel we had caught and we all went to bed tired but excited to be in a new country.

The next day found us snorkeling once again and we even did some fishing from the dinghy. While trolling through the reef systems we noticed a number of large Tarpon feeding on a school of minnows. We threw a few lures at them with no luck so we dropped the anchor and put on snorkel gear and quietly got in the water. What we saw before us was the most amazing scene I have ever observed underwater. In just 12-15 feet of water the reef was literally bursting with life. A large school of minnows were seeking refuge close to the reef and all the big dogs had come out to feed.

Observed from 30 feet away the scene was mesmerizing but then I swam directly into the minnows. They completely engulfed me and my visibility was reduced to mere inches. As I floated motionless on the surface without warning the minnows would part like the Red Sea and here swimming directly at me was a 5 foot long Tarpon or a school of Yellow Tailed Snapper or little Tuna and on one occasion a Grouper tipping the scale well in excess of 100 pounds. Add to this mix a few larger Tuna, Barracuda, Dog Snapper and all the normal reef inhabitants and it felt like someone had set us in the middle of the greatest fish tank ever conceived. It was truly awe inspiring and I hated to finally get out of the water.

Dinner that night was a fish fry on the beach, compliments of Greg and Barbara on S/V CToy, and a truly memorable day had come to a close. We were enjoying ourselves so much we decided to stay another day and do some more fishing and snorkeling. Little did we know that tomorrow Marshall would be robbed of one of his dearest possessions? To be continued……

Fair Winds and Following Seas, the 4Wheelers

200 Days Afloat

200 Days Afloat-Dreams Considered and Realized

"Dad, I went down 40 feet and saw the cutest little flounder," exclaimed Amy as she ran toward me from the dive boat. For five days, Amy (12) and Marshall (10) have been completing their Junior Open Water Scuba Certification. They are now certified and enjoying all that Scuba has to offer, not to mention the cute little flounder.

For the last month we have been living in and experiencing all that the Bay Islands of Honduras have to offer. The people and the islands have exceeded our expectations with abounding friendliness, wonderful fishing and snorkeling, not to mention many beautiful anchorages. Our slower than normal pace of travel has also provided the time to reflect on our journey so far, and as we approached our 200^th day cruising I found my mind and heart dwelling on dreams. Not those that come and go through the night but those that stay with us through life and provide direction and energy to our endeavors.

To many it seems, dreams reside as a vague notion, an indistinct vapor that appears and then quickly are gone without a trace. To others dreams burn with a white hot intensity and they become powerful motivators for action. But what are dreams and where do they come from, and perhaps more importantly, how do we respond to them throughout our lives?

In recent days I have become increasingly aware that many of the experiences we are now involved in cruising are the fulfillment of dreams started as a child for me. My childhood was one of great and varied experiences. I fell in love with the sea as a child living on the islands of Jamaica and Trinidad. In fifth grade I told my mom I wanted to be an ornithologist, and I have spent the rest of my life fascinated by birds. My favorite television programs as a kid were "Jacque Cousteau" and "Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom," or any show having to do with wildlife, the sea, or the natural world around us. Now I sit here on board Mima with the sea all around me and wildlife in every direction. This truly is a dream come true.

If the last 200 days have been the maturation of dreams held since childhood I am becoming more convinced that I need to dream more, and of the responsibility I have as a parent to encourage dreaming and risk taking in order to accomplish them. This notion also convinces me that the dreams I have, although uniquely mine, are the composite of all the forces that played active roles in my upbringing. My father and mother chose to leave the comfort of the United States in the early 70's to live in Trinidad and Jamaica. They were following their hearts but simultaneously instilled in mine a deep love and curiosity about other cultures and places. My grandfather invested untold hours of his retirement to show me the wild places and to love them. A university professor, and now dear friend, took my curiosity about birds and cultivated it into a deep and abiding passion for everything that flies.

If life is experienced at its highest by the fulfillment of dreams, I have few greater tasks than to model for and cultivate in my children the desire to dream and the confidence to attempt them. The diversity of stories told by cruisers about how they embarked on their own voyage has reinforced in my mind the reality that if the dream exists, and alongside it the courage to attempt it, those dreams that are today vague and indistinct can be sharpened and honed into a burning passion that provides direction and energy to an endeavor.

What does all this mean to a family from Idaho floating around the Caribbean? What stops us from stepping out and claiming the life we want for ourselves? I continue to ask those questions but I am reminded daily that living a life based on dreams is far more worth living than accepting the corporate or societal norm. We are wonderfully and uniquely made and we are best served, it seems, living like we were designed to live. Not to fill the mold or expectation of another but to embrace with confidence those dreams residing within each of us.

What will the experience of cruising around the Caribbean mean to Amy and Marshall in the years to come? We can only guess, but I grow more convinced daily that by living in response to dreams we weave into the tapestry of their lives diverse, challenging, and unique experiences that will create a platform upon which they can begin to dream good dreams and muster the courage to attempt them.

Until next time, dream well and fair winds.

The 4Wheelers